I just bought a Nano as well, thinking that I would be safe by now with it having the newer extractor/ejector. However, I am not sure as my serial # is NU003XXX.
The best I could find was ones built in early spring of this year would be fine (around 6000 plus). Yours in the 14-15K range should be GTG. I shot over a 100 rounds in my mine last week with a total of 4 FTE on Winchester white box 115.
None on 124 or 147 self defence rounds (probably 30-40 of those) that I shot at the beginning of the session. I will keep shooting it to see if the FTE continue with the cheap stuff and then decide if it needs to go back to Beretta or not. I feel kind of dumb not checking the serial number before buying it to make sure it was a newer one. But there are plenty of guys with very low serial numbers that have had no FTE or issues at all. Click to expand.I kind of regret buying my 26 all together. A clunky brick of a gun. It shot decent, but wasn't what I was looking for at the end of the day.
The nano is a single stack subcompact. Which as we all know, Glock is ignoring. I just felt like the 26 was to bulky and had a hard to reach mag release.
So far my nano has been gret. Thanks for the harsh opinion. Did you ever try sending your gun to beretta? Everyone I have seen that had issues had them resolved after sending it in.
Also found this using the proof stamp: Beretta firearms produced in Italy carry a proof mark for the year of production. The chart below is used to.
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To find the year of proof of your Beretta Shotgun you’ll need to find the Date Code. This will either be Roman Numerals for earlier guns or two letters for later guns.
The position of this varies from gun to gun but is usually hidden from view without breaking the gun down. Here seen at the rear of the barrels, underneath the chambers on an Over and Under and below on a Side by Side. The position varies a little more on the Semi-Autos but is usually somewhere towards the receiver end of the barrels again as seen on this AL391 Search.